Sus a la fraude! 1907 vindicated?


Fraud is still an enemy of the Midi, it seems. The cause for the great riots of 1907 has proven to be as persistent as a herring . One of the Midi’s largest winemaking cooperatives has met with problems in the Chinese market, where they have been victims of large-scale fraud. Mont Tauch is one of the region’s stars and is responsible for much of the AOC Corbieres and Fitou which we see in the UK market today. It has been active in China since 2007, with steady growth in its sales showing the investment to be a shrewd one.

When rumours began to spread of ridiculously cheap prices, however, authorities were spurred to begin an investigation into the odd market performance. It emerged in February of this year that Chinese counterfeiters have produced some 400,000 bottles of wine which claimed to be AOC Fitou. Although both the bottles and labels bear the logos of the Cooperative and their respective trademarks, the liquid within the bottle was not what it claimed to be. It seems that the liquid within the bottles was actually a very cheap South American wine of greatly inferior quality.

The forgeries were thought to be of good quality and only came to light during a meeting between Mont Tauch representatives and a customer. Nevertheless, authorities feel that they have stopped the flow of counterfeits and that customers in China can once again buy with confidence.

The impact on Mont Tauch’s Chinese business is not thought to be crippling, yet this goes to show the difficulty which fraud can pose. It does seem odd that the South is particularly prone to such forgeries and only strengthens the calls of Southern winegrowers to ensure that regulatory measures ensure wines are genuine and sales are legitimate. As one of my favourite wineries, it seems even more of a shame that such high quality wines were targeted. Nevertheless, now that the problem has been solved Chinese consumers can begin to enjoy some Southern French produce.

Often the ghosts of 1907 haunt the Midi in a negative sense, yet this event goes to show that their story is still relevant to the growers of today. The strict measures employed by the Midi winegrowers to prevent fraud are as important as ever, especially at a time when the Midi’s star is on the rise.

War of Wine

Marcelin Albert - 'the great redeemer'

One of the most interesting winegrowing areas in the world is the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France. Situated in the South-West of the country, this sun-scorched area is hemmed in by the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean. A land of rugby, boar-hunting and wine, the so-called Midi is an exciting area of production which has been one of France’s largest since time immemorial. A long history of over-production has somewhat hampered the area’s reputation, as the historic tendency has been towards the production of cheap, rustic reds designed to satisfy the home market’s desire for quick drinking wine at a discount. Yet, this Southern idyll has not always presented a tranquil face to the world.

The region vividly remembers 1907 as a moment of open revolt, when a series of riots in the region followed a wine crisis which made beggars of many. Some 600,000 people on the streets of Montpellier marked the high-point of a movement which say a regiment of the army mutiny in favour of the winegrowers after 6 people were tragically killed in the course of the demonstrations. Marcellin Albert, a cafe owner and winegrower from the village of Argeliers, was the passionate figure head of the movement and the local people referred to him as the ‘Redeemer’ of the Midi. Often presented as his able lieutenant, Dr Ernest Ferroul was an urban Socialist doctor from Narbonne whose fiery rhetoric impassioned the masses who moved to protest.

These riots fired a protest movement which spanned the subsequent century, motivating growers to protest against their poverty. This poverty was perceived to be the result of fraud, over-production and price fluctuations in the wine market. The riots of 1907 marked a high watermark that saw later winegrowers return to a moment of regional strength to express their discontent with the prevailing system. As growers articulately challenged the government to intervene throughout the twentieth century, vocal protests took up and developed the imagery of 1907.

Today, over a hundred years since the riots of 1907, there is a lot of interesting wine production in the Midi. Small artisanal growers are leading a charge towards high-quality, small-yield production geared towards selective drinkers and the export market. Demographic shifts and political changes have moved the region away from its traditional overproduction towards a more modern industry focussed on quality production.  Areas like Pic-St-Loup are becoming typical of a region on the up, as the problems of the past have ceded to a renewed passion for quality. The war of wine may yet be won!