Bone dry

Apologies for the recent lay-off in posting. I’ve been focussing on getting my thesis ever closer towards the finishing line and as a result the motivation for writing has waned a little.

Nonetheless, it strikes me as a moment which is definitely comment worthy as I’m currently enduring the heat of a summer in London. Lovely as summer is, soaring heat and increasing droughts are symptomatic of global climate change. We’ve all heard the confident predictions about England’s future ability to produce greater volumes of wine and the quixotic dreamers who are planting vines and olive trees as far north as Yorkshire to get ahead of the trend.

Climate change is about much more, however, than simply improving the ambient weather in the British Isles.  Clearly for every net ‘winner’ during a period of global meteorological change, there is a requisite ‘loser’. I once had a winegrower from the Languedoc talk about how France’s South was moved ‘North’ when they joined the EU. He was worried that Spain’s introduction meant that part of what made the Languedoc unique in France (its weather, its soils) was diminished and this would affect the region’s development. Nonetheless, the region has soldiered on.

Yet climate change has the potential to very realistically alter the experience of countries which right now are perfect for winegrowing. This observation has been motivated by a report which focussed on the future of Californian & West Coast winemaking and the impacts of Climate change. Last summer I had the goof fortune to drive down the West Coast, from Portland OR to San Francisco CA and the beautifully dramatic coastline made its impression strongly. Along that jagged coast, the vineyards of the West have been at the forefront of changing wine trends since the famous Judgement of Paris in 1976 and continue to innovate with delicious boutique wines and commercially savvy crowd-pleasers.

The Climate study, undertaken by researchers at Stanford University, projected the 30 year impact of global warming on four West Coast winemaking regions: the Napa valley and the county of Santa Barbara in California, Oregon’s Willamette Valley (Yamhill county) and Washington’s Columbia Valley (Walla Walla County). The potential impact on these regions is severe and the report warns of a decrease of almost 50% of viable land for vines.

The study’s findings are based on an assumption of a 23% increase in the ouput of greenhouse gases, yielding a 1 degree centigrade temperature increase. this would, in turn, exacerbate the number of exceedingly hot days where the thermometers top 35 degrees centigrade along America’s western coast. Such intense heat would produce challenging conditions for Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and reduce the area where they thrive in Napa by potentially as much as half. Santa Barbara would shed 20% of its suitable area, whilst The Columbia Valley might expect a requisite figure of 23%. In Oregon, the Willamette Valley might actually see an increase in the amount of suitable land, benefiting from temperature increases along the often rainy Western seafront. Such a dramatic loss of arable land along the west coast would prove extremely challenging for America’s wine economy during already difficult times.

One potential example to look to for advice on managing such change however, is the Languedoc. Even as it faced the challenges of expanding European markets, the region was also beset by a variety of measures designed to improve its quality and reduce its yield. Often touted as the ‘new El Dorado’, as was California, the Languedoc was the focus of targeted ‘arrachage’ progammes, which rewarded winegrowers for uprooting high-yield vine stock. This led, in part, to a 29% reduction in the Languedoc’s vine coverage between 1970 and 1994, as regional development policy shifted away from bulk production towards better quality grapes and better quality winemaking. Now the Languedoc stands as one of the wine world’s success stories – although it is not without its problems – and it will be interesting to see the means by which California adapts to similarly enforced reductions in volume.

Going Ape For Grapes

I’ve written elsewhere (in my book The Wine Pocket Bible (2009)) about a story related to me by the man who taught me most of what I know about wine many years ago. Specifically, this related to Apes stealing specific grapes from vineyards in South Africa and the winegrowers using electric fences to repel them. The hilarious thing is that they are pretty selective about their choices!

Today I stumbled across an article in The Independent which investigated this very phenomenon. It is reproduced below:

Via The Independent newspaper (25/03/10):

Picky baboons develop a taste for pinot noir (but merlot just won’t do)

By Nastasya Tay in Johannesburg

Thursday, 25 March 2010

Baboons foraging for grapes near Cape Town: One winemaker has resorted to using rubber snakes to deter the beasts
AP

Baboons foraging for grapes near Cape Town: One winemaker has resorted to using rubber snakes to deter the beasts

Baboons, it seems, prefer pinot noir. They also like a nice chardonnay. Largely undeterred by electric fences, hundreds of wild baboons in South Africa’s prized winelands are feasting on ripe, succulent grapes, forcing winemakers to use noisemakers and rubber snakes to try to drive them off during this harvest season.

“The poor baboons are driven to distraction,” said Justin O’Riain, who works in the Baboon Research Unit of the University of Cape Town. “As far as baboons are concerned, the combination of starch and sugar is very attractive – and that’s your basic grape.”

Growers say the picky primates are partial to sweet pinot noir grapes, adding to the winemakers’ woe, for pinot noir sells for more than the average merlot or cabernet sauvignon.

“They choose the nicest bunches, and you will see the ones they leave on the ground. If you taste them, they are sour,” said Francois van Vuuren, farm manager at La Terra de Luc vineyards, 50 miles east of Cape Town. “They eat the sweetest ones and leave the rest.”

Baboons have raided South Africa’s vineyards in the past, but farmers say this year is worse than previous ones because the primates have lost their usual foraging areas due to wildfires and ongoing expansion of grape-growing areas. Out of a 12-tonne harvest, about 5 per cent goes to waste at La Terra de Luc because of the baboons. And in the Constantia wine-producing area alone, up to £23,000 worth of the crop has been lost annually in previous years, according to the Baboon Research Unit.

Sometimes the baboons get an alcohol kick – by feasting on discarded grape skins that have fermented in the sun. After gobbling up the skins, the animals stumble around before sleeping it off in a shady spot.

During harvest season from January to March, winemakers put up serious frontline defences. Some try to scare off the baboons by blowing into vuvuzelas, horns that are often used by South Africa’s football fans.

Electric fencing often doesn’t work because baboons can dig underneath it or swing above it from trees to get to the vineyards. They also test the fence for weak spots. If they’re shocked, they’ll scream, but they’ll probably return the next day, says Mr O’Riain.

Sakkie Lourens, manager of Cabrière farm, has found one ruse that seems to work – rubber snakes. “I put them all over where the vines are, and since then, I haven’t seen a single baboon,” he said.

The Baboon Research Unit is pioneering a hi-tech approach in which a collar with a sensor is placed on a member of a baboon troop. When the collar passes a particular point, an “incoming baboon” text message is sent to a mobile phone, prompting someone to race to the fence and defend the vineyard.

Mr O’Riain doesn’t think the problem will go away because vineyards are expanding into the lower slopes of the mountains, the baboons’ traditional foraging grounds. “Where there’s a mountain, there’s a baboon,” he said. “As we take up more and more of their land, the conflict increases.”

http://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/africa/picky-baboons-develop-a-taste-for-pinot-noir-but-merlot-just-wont-do-1927000.html

Voodoo Chile: Carmenere comes back from the dead

There’s very little that can be said to be ‘new’ in the Wine world, with the practices of centuries filtering down into traditions which have become well established. Interestingly, some innovation has occurred in rediscovering old classics and forgotten styles. Re-using these established methods is both interesting and useful – representing a resurrection of ideas long thought dead.

One of these revenants is Carmenère, an interesting grape in itself. It fell out of favour in the Old World centuries ago, leaving Bordeaux before the blight of Phylloxera made itself firmly felt. It’s often described as the “lost Bordelais” grape, being almost totally unknown in its home in France. Centuries ago, monks set off on their missionary quest to South America, taking with them cuttings from the grapes from which they made their Abbey’s sacred  tipples. In its Chilean habitat, Carmenère was long believed to be a variant of Merlot until a French botanist discovered the truth after the Second World War.

The excess heat of the Chilean climate had allowed the grape to prosper as it had never done in Bordeaux. Nowadays it can be broadly expressive of chocolate and plummy notes, with a herbal lift which is characterised by violet or lavender. It’s similar to traditionally grown European Merlot, yet with a unique and interesting strength which Merlot often lacks. As a single varietal it is an exciting and singular grape which is definitely worth exploring in its own right.

Chile is not only famous for this obscure grape, however. Noble varieties of the Old World like Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz have found their home in the temperate mountains of Chile which play host to the majority of the country’s wine production.

Whether by Voodoo or otherwise, Carmenère is definitely back from the dead, but it can still be full of soul!